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Kashmir: Missed Chance: Oh Hello, Dalai!

What do you do when one of the world’s pre-eminent religious leaders sits behind you on the plane? Dish on China? Share your iPod? Pretend to levitate? Or maybe, nothing at all?

By Kevin Sites, Tue May 30, 2:00 PM ET

Location: The aisle of Jet Air 737 making a stop in Jammu,

Kashmir.

You: Bald-headed and bespectacled, wearing an off-the-shoulder scarlet and orange robe, smelling of sandalwood incense and lotus flowers and toting a briefcase with a "Free Tibet" sticker.

Me: Long-haired, bleary-eyed foreign correspondent, wearing a dirty black T-shirt, khaki pants, smelling of last night's curry and toting a look of unrivaled disbelief.

The moment: I was sitting in my aisle seat already, having boarded in Kashmir, when we made the quick stop in Jammu on our way to Delhi. That's where I saw you. Your bodyguards got on first — not the juiced up, pistol-packing muscle that usually accompanies heads of state, annoying celebrities and corporate robber barons — just clean-cut, average-sized dudes that probably did their time in a Shaolin temple or two and could likely snap spines with a properly pitched shout.

One eyeballed me for a second, shooting a fully disapproving look at my unlaced combat boots and slumpy seating posture.

But all that negativity quickly disappeared when your silhouette pierced the white haze coming from the open cabin doorway. You looked inside — I can't say whether right at me or not, but it certainly seemed that way — a barely-perceptible Mona Lisa smile on your face. Or perhaps you were only adjusting to the light inside the plane.

As you walked by I wanted to reach out and touch you, thinking that even just a brush against your robes might make me a wiser, kinder, more peaceful man — or at the very least I'd know if they were all cotton or some kind of synthetic blend.

But no, I was too awestruck. I just let you pass by without even a word. Then, opportunity came knocking again when you climbed into the window seat behind me.

But there was another problem. You were with someone else. Another Buddhist monk from Tibet. Now I'm not saying he's some kind of God digger, but I doubt he'd hang around with less karmic figures.

I tried to listen while you made your lunch choice from the flight attendant; were you a galoob paneer or veggie korma kind of Dalai? I thought maybe if your friend got up to use the bathroom I could slip in for a second while the seat belt sign was off and buy you a sweet mango lassi.

But he never left your side. Smart. Probably knew some enlightenment-seeking player like me would try to move in on you in a second. I mean look what happened when you went to Hollywood. That whole Richard Gere affair.

I kept watching you out of the corner of my eye, pretending to listen more closely than I was to Matisyahu on my iPod Nano. I'd bet my backup 100 gig hard drive that you'd get a kick out of hearing a Hasidic Jew singing reggae. I considered offering you my headset, but you just sat there, staring out the window with that blissfully serene look on your face.

I kept trying to think of something witty to say, but nothing came to mind, which with you, I guess, is probably a good thing, seeing as how you're always talking about staying in the moment.

I thought about asking if you saw "The Da Vinci Code," but you probably get that all the time. With that mischievous smile of yours, I wondered if the whole thing might've been one of your legendary monkish pranks, spreading rumors to author Dan Brown to get Pope B's vestments all in bunch. I can even imagine you double-dog daring the Danish cartoonist just to get the other guys riled up too.

You seem like the kind of Dalai that would have cracked up if I had asked you to bless my peanuts.

I guess that's why I was initially attracted to you — forced into exile, had to grow up fast, decades of cross-legged meditation and a vegetarian diet, yet you're still able to keep your impish sense of humor.

And I have to admit, your professional success is pretty impressive too. A lot of people say they want world peace, but how many can actually make a living at it? Also, this was just a bonus, but I don't think I ever felt so safe and secure flying with anyone else — ever.

When the plane finally landed in Delhi, we had that moment during the deplaning where I paused to let you go first, but you waved me ahead. I knew that if I went, we'd probably never speak, but just like that, I did. The next thing I know, I'm in the airport shuttle and you're being packed into the back of a white Mercedes and whisked off to who knows where. I press my face against the bus window to get one more glimpse, but it's too late.

Anyway, I know there's probably a slim chance that you'll read this. But if you get my vibe, I'm putting out good thoughts into the universe and wanted to tell you: while in the short time we spent together I didn't achieve nirvana, I came very close, for me anyway, to having a moment of Zen.


http://hotzone.yahoo.com/b/hotzone/blogs4884

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Comments

Join the discussion. Here you'll see the comments in the order they were posted.

1
Great article!
Posted by rjezmajian on Tue, May 30, 2006 3:22 PM ET
2
Kevin, You imbecile dolt! With all the experience of travelling around the world and interviewing hundreds of people and you couldn't even say, "Namaste, your holiness". Were you too proud and didn't want to look like an impressionable yong hippy? Were you too sumg to think, Dalai Lama is a mere holywood Guru? Or were you simply overwhelmed with your smallness against this giant? I am still at a loss to know what made you freeze. Now that you have completely bungeled a chance to do Kevin special on Dalai Lama, may I suggest you make a pilgrimage to Dharmashala, residence of Dalai Lama and report on a peaceful place. This could be your first against the backdrop all the gore and blood that you have been reporting. It would be nice to see the other side of the humanity - the non-violent, peaceful side of the humanity. Peace. Dr. Who
Posted by drwho253 on Tue, May 30, 2006 3:27 PM ET
3
Hey Kevin, I am pretty sure I would have frozen just the way you did.....the experience to come accross the Dalai Lama out of the blue is certainly overwhelming for any regular human (this - for the benefit of Dr Who)! However, anyone else would have just filed this experience in their brain cells, but you Kevin Sites, wrote an essay, and one that made terrific reading. Congratulations. And, as Dr Who has advised, the trip to Dharamshala might just be worth the while - you could even make an appointment with His Holiness and give us some more good and thought provoking reading. Cheers - Devashish, Delhi
Posted by devashish_india on Tue, May 30, 2006 5:54 PM ET
4
Another example of my favorite reason to read Kevin's blog like reports. I read, I laugh out loud, I read, I laugh out loud.
Posted by traceyh2b on Tue, May 30, 2006 7:14 PM ET
5
What is this rubbish? The Dalai Lama is not a vegetarian, nor is he required to be. There is no such thing as "Galoob Paneer" The "Universe" is not your spiritual oyster, into which you can send your apparently stoned hippy vibes. Throwing the names of a bunch of Indian food dishes which you may have heard in a california Indian eatery (and which are not consumed in India), does not make a story about India. You apparently ARE a dirty smelly hippy, so dont worry about people mistaking you for the same. Idiot.
Posted by aditya1982 on Tue, May 30, 2006 8:07 PM ET
6
I bet it is WHO he is that made you feel that way on the plane. It is him, not the title he carries. I bet even people who do not know who he is feel what he really is at heart. Some special people are so much that way inside that other people feel it. You should have told him how good just being around him made you feel. He probably knows he has that effect on people, but he might appreciate hearing it. It sounds to me like he has a blessing, a gift, that makes people feel that way. smiles,
Posted by lillaci on Tue, May 30, 2006 8:20 PM ET
7
Hi Aditya, you need to read more carefully. In this essay, Kevin says "decades of cross-legged meditation and a vegetarian diet" which means that though the Dalai Lama might not necessarily be vegetarian, he followed that diet for a period in his life as part of his spiritual penance. In the earlier mention at vegetarianism, Kevin is merely trying to speculate what the Dalai Lama would order for grub in the flight. Kevin states "I tried to listen while you made your lunch choice from the flight attendant; were you a galoob paneer or veggie korma kind of Dalai?" This does not in any way state that Kevin is trying to brand the Dalai Lama as vegetarian. Also, Kevin is not trying to tell a story about India, just his experience on a flight where he chanced the experience to sit close to the Dalai Lama; it's just that this narrative happens in the backdrop of an Indian setting. And, for God's sake, so what if Kevin misspelled the name of an Indian eatery dish? How many foreign dishes would any "normal" human being be able to correctly name? And if Kevin is a dirty smelly hippy, who is one of the world's best war correspndents and writes this well.... well, i wish we had more dirty, smelly hippies like him! And - being vegetarian or not certainly does NOT qualify anyone as being a good person! - So Kevin - Bravo and keep doing your great work! - Devashish, New Delhi, India.
Posted by devashish_india on Tue, May 30, 2006 10:26 PM ET
8
I wouldn't have frozen. I don't go in for hero worship. Dalai Lama might be a great guy, but at the end of the day, he's just a guy, with human frailties just like everyone else. BTW, Adolf Hitler was a vegatarian.
Posted by madmac572 on Wed, May 31, 2006 7:01 AM ET
9
For heaven's sake stop worrying about whether it is curry or vindaloo or aviyal or whatever! Who gives a rat's ass? Now coming back to the main topic - Dalai Lama. Just saw the news that two brave nuns who wrote songs about Tibet and Dalai Lama just escaped from Chinese and reached India. Kevin could interview them about their experience in Chinese prison for 10-20 years. See more at - http://www.phayul.com/news/article.aspx?id=12724&article=Two+'singing+nuns'+arrive+in+exile+after+escape+from+Tibet&t=1&c=1
Posted by drwho253 on Wed, May 31, 2006 11:40 AM ET
10
nice advice Dr Who! - Devashish, Delhi
Posted by devashish_india on Wed, May 31, 2006 1:28 PM ET

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in memoriam

The Kevin Sites in the Hot Zone team dedicates this site to Marla Ruzicka, a fearless voice of compassion, who was killed in Iraq on April 16, 2005, while trying to lessen the suffering of others. For more information, see Civic Worldwide.