Jittery Jaffna
In the northern city of Jaffna there is a shell of a church destroyed by earlier fighting. Some here worry that it may not just be a symbol of violence past, but of violence to come.
By Kevin Sites, Wed Jun 7, 8:50 PM ET
JAFFNA, Sri Lanka - Since the 1980s Sri Lanka has been embroiled in a civil war between a mostly Hindu, Tamil separatist minority and the largely Buddhist Sinhalese majority.
An estimated 60,000 people have died in the conflict.
The northern city of Jaffna has seen some of the worst of the fighting. But a 2002 cease-fire between the government and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam — or Tamil Tigers as they're more commonly known — brought some hope to the city and the region for peace.
Now with outbreaks of violence on an almost daily basis, some fear the cease-fire may be about to fold even as new talks are underway between the two parties in Oslo, Norway.
The shell of a Protestant Church of Christ, destroyed in a 1995 government offensive, is one of the most dramatic symbols of the past fighting. But it also could be a symbol of more violence to come.
As we toured the remains of the church, the caretaker talked to me about the possibility of rebuilding, even as the region teeters on the brink of renewed war.
VIDEO TRANSCRIPT
KEVIN SITES: What we're looking at right now is the external walls of Christ Church. This church happens to be in an area where the Tamil Tigers were operating, and it was shelled, apparently by the army and by the Sri Lankan navy. Most of the roof was destroyed and collapsed, and what we're seeing right now are just the outside walls that remain standing.
We've been talking with Arthur, who is the caretaker here. He's been watching over the church, after it was damaged. He moved here because his family was displaced by the fighting between the Tigers and the army.
This is his nephew and niece, David and Regina. They've been playing in the church. And it's a good spot for them to play — although most of the debris has been removed, the walls seem to still be pretty sturdy. It's about dusk here in Jaffna, and the light is just beautiful coming in through all these different windows and all these adjoining walls.
Now there are actually Sri Lankan soldiers to my right and they've asked me not to shoot (videotape) them. They'd like to keep this as a secure area and they don't necessarily want us giving away their positions to Tamil Tigers.
Pretty much all of the roof has been destroyed; it's completely been blown away, and all that remains standing are the outside walls. There is a wooden cross that's still hanging from an archway where the altar would be of the church. And Arthur, the caretaker, isn't sure whether that cross was placed back up there by members of the church after the bombing, or if it remained hanging from the roof during the bombing. There are some plaques here, basically from people that had probably helped support the church financially.
Now, we're looking around. There's another young man, hi there — and that's Regina, and that's David — and they live over in the rectory house, through that archway, with their uncle and their mom. They like to play in this church, they like to hang out there, and who wouldn't? It's a beautiful structure, especially at dusk.
KEVIN SITES: Arthur, you said there's a possibility the church could be rebuilt.
ARTHUR (church caretaker): Yes.
Symbols of the conflict» View
SITES: Now, what would it take to rebuild the church?
ARTHUR: The Bishop came last month, came from Colombo, and they are waiting for the funds I think.
SITES: How much money do they think it will cost to rebuild it?
ARTHUR: For the roof, they need two million.
SITES: At least two million?
ARTHUR: At least two million, yes, for the roof.
SITES: Because it seems like they might be able to keep some of the outside walls, but still, a lot of work.
ARTHUR: They asked to patch it up.
SITES: They just want to patch it up, not rebuild it?
ARTHUR: Yes, to show the history of the church.
SITES: They want to keep the outside walls and keep some of the damage to show the history — that despite the bombing that the church remained standing, basically. I see, that's a good idea.
ARTHUR: Yes. If they rebuilt the church, the history would be finished, no?
SITES: It would be disappeared, it would be gone — so it's a good idea to keep the outside walls at the very least.
ARTHUR: Yes.
SITES: When do you think that might be done?
ARTHUR: Hard to say, you know, because now, the situation... (laughs)
SITES: The situation has gotten worse again, hasn't it?
ARTHUR: Yes.
SITES: Do feel less safe than you did before?
ARTHUR: Well you see, now they are at least talking about peace.
SITES: They're talking in Oslo right now...
ARTHUR: Yes, is peace coming? I think so.
Sri Lankan military
SITES: You hope so — but there have been more violent attacks lately, yes? Do you feel less secure?
ARTHUR: Can't say, you know?
SITES: But you felt more secure right after the cease-fire in 2002. Things were good then?
ARTHUR: Yes yes, those days were very good, and we were very happy ... now we are very afraid.
SITES: A9, the road that comes from Sri Lanka into Eelam, into the Tamil Tiger controlled area, that opened again after the cease-fire. But now it seems like it's constricted. The flow has been less. So things are a bit more tense in the area. But you're hopeful that they'll talk it out in Oslo, and that perhaps the cease fire will continue to hold?
ARTHUR: Yes, yes. You are coming from which area?
SITES: I'm from the United States. I work for Yahoo!, for the Internet, and we cover conflict zones. This is one of the conflict zones that we wanted to cover — to come and see the different areas of Sri Lanka that have been affected by the fighting between the government and the Tamil Tigers.
Now, you're a Christian man?
ARTHUR: I'm a Christian, yes.
SITES: Most people in this area are Hindu, yes?
ARTHUR: Yes.
SITES: So [this church] is very important for you, in terms of your religion, to watch over.
ARTHUR: Yes.
SITES: Well it's a beautiful structure, even despite the fact it's been bombed, and it's an interesting mystery whether that cross stayed hanging during the bombing or if it was placed back up there — you don't know.
We hope you get your funds, and that you're able to rebuild — and as you said, just to put a roof on and keep the outside walls so you can maintain the history.
ARTHUR: If the peace comes, I think there are a lot of countries willing to give money, no?
SITES: If the peace remains, people will be able to help you out?
ARTHUR: If foreign countries are willing to give some money to rebuild those things... this is a question mark, no?
SITES: There's a big question mark right now. We'll have to see what happens. Hopefully, peace will hold here.
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